The short answer: a diamond is extremely hard and does not wear out in the way metal does, but it can chip if struck at the wrong angle, and the setting around it wears with time. Looking after the claws and the band keeps the stone safe.
People often say diamonds last for ever. The stone is durable, and the rest of the ring needs care.
The stone
Diamond is the hardest natural material, so it resists scratching from everyday objects. It is tough but not unbreakable. A hard knock on the edge, particularly at a weak point, can chip it.
The setting
Metal is softer and wears. Claws thin over time. The band can thin at the bottom. This is where most issues arise.
| Part | Wear |
|---|---|
| Diamond | Very low, with a risk of chips from knocks. |
| Claws | Thin and wear. |
| Band | Thins slowly. |
| Finish | Can wear on white gold. |
How metals wear differently
Gold and platinum wear in different ways. Gold loses a tiny amount of metal with years of rubbing, so a band can slowly thin. Platinum tends to move rather than wear away, so it develops a soft patina and can be polished back. White gold often has a bright plated surface that wears through over time, showing a warmer tone underneath until it is refreshed. Our guides to metals compared and polishing or replating explain what to expect.
Natural and lab grown
Both are diamond and share the same hardness. Browse diamonds and lab grown colourless diamonds.
Hardness and toughness are different
Hardness describes resistance to scratching, and toughness describes resistance to breaking. Diamond is the hardest, yet it can still cleave, or split, along certain directions if it is hit hard in the wrong place. That is why jewellers protect the corners and edges of fancy shapes with extra metal. See protecting the corners of step cut stones.
How to protect it
- Remove the ring for heavy work and sport.
- Clean it gently.
- Have it checked regularly.
- Choose a setting that protects the stone.
Signs of trouble
- A stone that moves.
- A claw that looks thin or bent.
- A band that feels thin or has a crack.
What a service can fix
Most wear can be put right before it causes a problem. Thin claws can be re tipped with new metal, a worn band can be rebuilt at the base, and a loose stone can be tightened. Catching these early is far easier than replacing a lost stone. Our guide to what happens at a ring service appointment explains the checks.
Inherited and older diamonds
Older diamonds can show small chips from years of wear. A jeweller can often polish or reset them.
Choosing a protective setting
If you are designing a new ring, a bezel or a low claw setting reduces the chance of knocks, and V claws protect the corners of pointed shapes. Tell us about your daily life and we design the setting to suit it. Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
See cleavage and chips.
Frequently asked questions
Can a diamond scratch? In everyday life it is usually only scratched by another diamond.
Can it lose its sparkle? It can look dull when dirty.
Will it last a lifetime? With care, the stone can last for generations.
What wears first on a ring? Usually the claws and the base of the band.
Can I order a protective setting from overseas? Yes, by video consultation, with insured, tracked FedEx delivery.