A PRACTICAL GUIDE
Your metal choice shapes colour, comfort, durability, and long term maintenance. Compare platinum, yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, and sterling silver; then choose the option that suits your style and how you wear your jewellery.
Material Excellence
Every piece at À Vie Diamonds is crafted to order in your chosen metal. We offer six precious metals across a range of purities, allowing you to balance durability, colour, and budget without compromise.
The most enduring of all precious metals. Yellow gold carries a warmth that complements every skin tone and sits at the heart of fine jewellery tradition. Each piece is crafted to order using responsibly sourced gold.
White gold offers a clean, contemporary alternative to platinum at a considered price point. Its cool, silvery tone pairs beautifully with brilliant and fancy cut diamonds alike.
White gold finished with a layer of rhodium achieves a mirror-bright surface with exceptional resistance to scratching and tarnish. A popular choice for diamond engagement rings.
Rose gold achieves its warm, blush tone through a carefully balanced alloy of gold and copper. Distinctly romantic, it has seen a sustained following in bespoke engagement and wedding jewellery across the UK.
Sterling silver is crafted to the hallmarked 925 standard, ensuring purity and quality. An accessible entry point into fine jewellery with a bright, cool lustre suited to everyday wear.
The rarest metal we work with. Platinum 950 is denser, more durable, and naturally white, meaning it never requires re-plating. The most sought-after metal for heirloom-quality fine jewellery.
Not sure which metal is right for you? Our team is happy to advise.
Our metals
Every piece is crafted to order in the metal you choose. The options below cover colour, durability, and price so you can find the right fit for your jewellery and your lifestyle.
The most enduring of all precious metals. Yellow gold carries a warmth that complements every skin tone and sits at the heart of fine jewellery tradition. Each piece is crafted to order using responsibly sourced gold.
White gold offers a clean, contemporary alternative to platinum at a considered price point. Its cool, silvery tone pairs beautifully with brilliant and fancy cut diamonds alike.
White gold finished with a layer of rhodium achieves a mirror-bright surface with exceptional resistance to scratching and tarnish. A popular choice for diamond engagement rings.
Rose gold achieves its warm, blush tone through a carefully balanced alloy of gold and copper. Distinctly romantic, it has seen a sustained following in bespoke engagement and wedding jewellery across the UK.
Sterling silver is crafted to the hallmarked 925 standard, ensuring purity and quality. An accessible entry point into fine jewellery with a bright, cool lustre suited to everyday wear.
The rarest metal we work with. Platinum 950 is denser, more durable, and naturally white, meaning it never requires re-plating. The most sought-after metal for heirloom-quality fine jewellery.
Choosing your metal
Durability is not a single number. The same metal that shrugs off daily wear can make a claw setting riskier, resist resizing, or clash with the metal in your existing jewellery. Each row below rates four practical axes — click any metal for the nuance behind the score.
Platinum is the most durable choice for daily wear, but durable does not mean maintenance-free. It scratches as readily as gold — the difference is that scratches displace metal rather than remove it, so mass is preserved. Over years this creates a patina some love and others polish out.
For claw settings, platinum flows well under pressure but thin claws can work-harden and become brittle. Ask your jeweller to check claw thickness, not just material. Resizing is possible in most configurations, though labour cost is higher than gold. Mixing with yellow or rose gold components accelerates galvanic corrosion on the softer metal — fine for occasional wear, a concern for daily-wear stacking pieces.
18ct white gold is the most practical all-round choice for engagement rings. The alloy is harder than platinum, making it excellent for claw and pavé settings — claws hold their shape well and prong tips stay crisp longer. Resizing is straightforward in most ring profiles.
The compromise is the rhodium plating that gives white gold its bright colour. Replating is typically needed every 1–3 years depending on wear and skin chemistry — a small ongoing cost. Without replating, the ring gradually reveals a warmer, slightly yellowish tint from the gold alloy beneath. Mixed-metal pairing with platinum reads as near-identical to most eyes, making it the easiest combination for stacking.
Yellow gold's softness is simultaneously its greatest risk and its greatest convenience. Claws in yellow gold can spread or wear thin over years of daily contact — annual claw checks are more important here than with harder alloys. A shallow pavé band set in 18ct yellow gold will show wear at the prongs noticeably sooner than the same ring in white gold or platinum.
For resizing, yellow gold is the most forgiving metal — it flows smoothly under a torch and hallmarks cleanly. Eternity rings and fully-set bands remain impossible to resize regardless of metal, but for solitaires and simple bands, yellow gold is the easiest to work with. As a mixed-metal pairing it is the most versatile: it complements platinum, white gold, and rose gold in stacks without the galvanic concerns of dissimilar base metals.
Rose gold's copper content makes it slightly harder than yellow gold — which sounds like an advantage until you consider that the same copper makes it more brittle at thin cross-sections. Thin knife-edge bands, very fine claws, and delicate filigree are higher-risk in rose gold than in yellow or white. If you are drawn to a thin rose gold band, ask specifically about minimum thickness.
Resizing is workable but requires a jeweller comfortable with rose gold — the higher copper content means it needs precise temperature control to avoid porosity. Mixed-metal pairing deserves thought: rose gold reads beautifully alongside yellow gold but can look mismatched next to cool-toned platinum or white gold jewellery, depending on skin tone and the specific pieces involved. Worth trying both together before committing.
9ct gold is harder than 18ct because a greater proportion of the alloy is non-gold metal — but hardness here is not the same as wear resistance. The alloy structure means metal is removed rather than displaced with daily abrasion. Over a decade of daily wear, fine detail, edges, and claw tips will show measurable material loss.
For an engagement ring worn every day, 9ct is not a material we typically recommend for the setting itself — particularly for claws holding a significant stone. The cost saving is real but the long-term security risk to the stone is also real. Where 9ct performs well is in band rings, wedding bands, and pieces where the lower price point enables a design that would be cost-prohibitive in 18ct. Resizing is easy, and it pairs without concern alongside other gold tones.
Scores are practical ratings, not rankings. The right metal depends on your ring style, lifestyle, and existing jewellery.
Materials
Select up to three metals to compare them side by side. Each entry covers karat options, durability, maintenance, and suitability to help you make the right choice for your commission.
Select up to three metals to compare
Deselect a metal to choose another.
Overview
The warmest and most timeless choice in fine jewellery. Yellow gold's rich hue is entirely natural and requires no plating or surface treatment. Its colour deepens with higher karat purity, and it remains the most popular metal for bespoke engagement rings and wedding bands worldwide.
Karat options
Durability
Best suited for
Engagement rings, wedding bands, pendants, earrings. 22K for plain bands only.
Maintenance
No plating required. Clean periodically with warm soapy water. Higher karats may show surface marks more readily but are easily repolished.
Hypoallergenic
Generally well tolerated. Nickel-free alloys available on request at any karat.
18K yellow gold is our most recommended starting point for bespoke commissions.
Overview
White gold achieves its colour through alloying yellow gold with white metals such as palladium. In its natural unplated state it carries a slightly warm or grey tone. Most customers choose rhodium plating to achieve the bright mirror-white finish. See the Rhodium-Plated option for the finished appearance most people associate with white gold.
Karat options
Durability
Best suited for
Engagement rings, diamond settings, pieces where a cool white tone is preferred over yellow.
Maintenance
Rhodium plating wears gradually and typically needs refreshing every one to three years depending on wear. Replating is a straightforward service we offer.
Hypoallergenic
Palladium alloy versions are nickel-free. Please request this at enquiry stage if you have a known sensitivity.
White gold in its natural state has a warm grey tone. Rhodium plating is what gives it the bright white finish most customers expect.
Overview
Rhodium is a rare platinum-group metal with an exceptionally bright, reflective surface. Applied as a thin electrolytic layer over white gold, it creates the brilliant mirror-white finish most people associate with white gold jewellery. We apply rhodium plating as standard to all white gold pieces and offer a professional replating aftercare service.
Base metal options
Appearance
Best suited for
Any white gold piece where a bright mirror-white finish is desired. Particularly effective for diamond settings where maximum light reflection matters.
Maintenance
The plating layer wears gradually with daily contact. Most pieces need replating every one to three years. We offer a professional replating service — contact us for current pricing and turnaround times.
Hypoallergenic
Rhodium itself is naturally hypoallergenic and acts as a barrier between skin and the alloys beneath, making this an excellent choice for those with metal sensitivities.
The most reflective finish available in white metal jewellery. The standard choice for diamond engagement rings at À Vie Diamonds.
Overview
Rose gold achieves its distinctive blush tone through a copper-rich alloy. It is one of the most romantic and fashionable choices in contemporary fine jewellery, pairing beautifully with both white and champagne-toned diamonds. The warm pink hue is inherent to the alloy and requires no plating — it will never fade or need refreshing.
Karat options
Durability
Best suited for
Engagement rings, stacking rings, vintage-inspired designs, pieces intended to complement warm skin tones.
Maintenance
No plating required. The colour is permanent and will not fade. Clean with warm soapy water as needed. Higher copper content may show minor tarnish over time — easily resolved with a light polish.
Hypoallergenic
Contains copper. Those with a known copper sensitivity should discuss alternative alloy options with us before placing an order.
No plating. No fading. The blush colour is inherent to the alloy and is as permanent as the metal itself.
Overview
Sterling silver is a bright, accessible metal with a long and distinguished history in fine jewellery. It is softer than gold or platinum and will tarnish without regular wear and care. It remains a beautiful and affordable option for pendants, earrings, and occasional-wear pieces.
Grade
Durability
Best suited for
Pendants, earrings, bracelets, and occasional-wear rings. Less recommended for daily-wear rings due to softness and tarnishing.
Maintenance
Polish regularly with a silver cloth to maintain shine. Store in an airtight pouch when not worn to slow the natural tarnishing process.
Hypoallergenic
Generally well tolerated. The 7.5% copper alloy content may cause sensitivity in rare cases. Advise us of any known sensitivities at enquiry stage.
For rings intended for daily wear we recommend discussing gold or platinum options during your consultation for longer-lasting results.
Overview
Platinum is the most prestigious metal in fine jewellery. Heavier, rarer, and more durable than gold, it develops a natural satin patina over time rather than wearing away. Unlike white gold, platinum requires no rhodium plating as its white colour is entirely natural and permanent. It is the definitive choice for a lifelong commission.
Grade
Durability
Best suited for
Engagement rings, heirloom pieces, those wanting the finest and most durable option available. Particularly well suited to securing high-value diamonds.
Maintenance
Develops a desirable satin patina with wear. Metal displaced by surface contact remains within the piece rather than being lost. Can be repolished to a high shine at any time.
Hypoallergenic
Naturally hypoallergenic. The safest and most suitable choice for those with any metal sensitivity.
The only metal we offer that requires no surface treatment of any kind. Its white colour, weight, and durability are entirely natural.
Select at least one metal above to begin comparing.
Quick guide
Not sure where to start? Match your priority to a metal and move on. Every recommendation below assumes normal daily wear.
Best for daily wear
The densest metal we work with. It does not wear away — it displaces, developing a patina that protects the surface over decades. No replating, no fading.
PlatinumBest for bright white look
Rhodium plating delivers a mirror-bright, cool white that outperforms unplated white gold. Maintenance is straightforward — replating every few years keeps it looking new.
White GoldBest for low maintenance
Yellow gold requires no plating and no specialist care. A simple polish restores its appearance. 18ct offers the right balance of purity and durability for everyday wear.
Yellow GoldBest value
14ct gold carries more alloy than 18ct, making it harder and more affordable without compromising on quality. The right choice when budget needs to go further on the stone.
14ct GoldBest for sensitive skin
Both are high-purity metals with minimal alloy content. Nickel — the most common irritant — is not used in our alloys. If you have had reactions to jewellery before, these are the safest choices.
High PurityBest for vintage or warm tone
The copper alloy gives rose gold its distinctive blush tone that deepens with age. It suits warm skin tones particularly well and carries a romantic, considered quality that yellow and white gold cannot replicate.
Rose GoldNot sure which applies to you? We are happy to advise during a complimentary consultation.
Compare all metals in detail →Craftsmanship
Finish affects how a ring reflects light, how marks show, and how it ages over time.
Platinum is naturally white, dense, and highly durable. White gold is a gold alloy that is usually rhodium plated for a bright finish. White gold may need re plating over time, while platinum does not. Both are excellent choices, and the right option depends on the look you prefer and how you wear your jewellery.
Platinum is a premium choice for daily wear, particularly for engagement rings and gemstone settings where strength and security matter. Gold is also an excellent choice, especially in well designed settings. The best option depends on the design, finish, and how hands on your lifestyle is.
Most designs in gold and platinum can be resized by a skilled jeweller. Some styles have limits, such as full eternity settings or designs with extensive stone set shoulders. We will advise what is realistic for your design before anything is made.
Platinum is widely chosen for sensitive wearers because it is typically used in high purity. Gold alloys vary, and sensitivity depends on the specific alloy. If this matters for you, we will recommend an appropriate option and confirm the alloy choice.
Platinum is often the best choice when you want maximum durability and a naturally white finish. White gold offers a bright look with a lower initial cost, and can be maintained with re plating when needed. Yellow and rose gold are timeless choices that bring warmth and character, and can flatter both diamonds and coloured gemstones beautifully.
Platinum can be cleaned with warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush. It may develop a gentle patina, which can be polished if you prefer a higher shine.
Gold also cleans well with warm water and mild soap. White gold may need occasional re plating to restore a bright finish.
Sterling silver benefits from regular polishing and careful storage to reduce tarnish.
Yes. White metals such as platinum and rhodium plated white gold can emphasise a crisp, bright look. Yellow and rose gold add warmth, which can flatter some diamonds and enhance many coloured gemstones. We can show you comparisons so you can see the effect clearly.
