Ethically Sourced
Rubies chosen for colour. Set for daily wear.
We source natural rubies for bespoke engagement rings and fine jewellery. Every stone is assessed for colour, clarity, treatment, and wearability before we recommend it.
Clarity, in practical terms
Rubies can have inclusions. The question is how they present.
Natural rubies commonly show inclusions. Many are perfectly acceptable when they do not distract at normal viewing distance. What matters is whether the ruby looks transparent and lively, rather than cloudy. We prioritise rubies that appear crisp face up, and we avoid features that reduce brightness or create obvious haziness.
Eye clean EC1 - EC2 | Visibly included VI1 - VI2 | Included I1 - I2
No inclusions visible to the naked eye at arm's length. The ruby looks transparent and lively. Our preferred starting point for fine stones.
Minor inclusions not visible at normal viewing distance. Still appears clean and bright face up. Excellent value at this grade.
Inclusions visible on close inspection. Do not significantly affect face up appearance at arm's length. Acceptable where colour is exceptional.
Inclusions clearly visible and may affect brightness slightly. Price should reflect the trade-off. We advise carefully at this level.
Inclusions noticeably affect transparency or brilliance face up. We rarely recommend stones at this grade for jewellery use.
Significant inclusions reduce the stone's face up appearance substantially. Not suitable for fine jewellery in our view.
We prioritise rubies that appear crisp and transparent face up at arm's length. Inclusions should feel like character rather than distraction. Haziness or obvious veiling is always a reason to look further.
A heavily included ruby may look acceptable in isolation but lose its presence once set, especially in lower or diffuse light. We advise on practical expectations for daily wear before any stone is selected.
Colour & Character
Ruby colour and character
Rubies are prized for red. The most desirable stones show a balanced hue with strong saturation and a tone that stays bright in everyday lighting. The goal is a confident, elegant red that reads evenly across the stone, rather than patchy, overly dark, or washed out.
Natural rubies often contain inclusions. The key is how they present. We prioritise stones with attractive character and good transparency, so your ruby ring looks lively and refined on the hand.
Carat weight and face-up size
Weight is not the same as size
Carat measures weight, not dimensions. A ruby of the same weight as a diamond will appear slightly smaller because it is denser. Two rubies of the same carat weight can also vary in face-up size depending on depth. The guide below shows typical dimensions for each weight — but the stone we present may differ slightly based on its individual cut.
Dimensions are approximate and vary by cut and depth — stones are assessed individually
Treatment & disclosure
Treatments and transparency
Clear information supports confident buying.
Many rubies are treated to improve colour and apparent clarity. Heat treatment is common, and some rubies may also be fracture filled. Treatment type and degree can influence value and collectability, so what matters is disclosure and realistic expectations. We explain what is known about treatment for each ruby and what it means for price, care, and long term wear. Where certification or supporting documentation is available, we recommend keeping it with the piece as part of the ruby's provenance.
Heat treatment - side by side
Understanding heat treatment
Unheated
An unheated ruby has reached its colour and clarity entirely through natural geological processes. No heat has been applied. These stones are rarer, command a significant premium, and are highly prized by collectors.
Rarest - Highest valueHeated
Heat treatment is the most common and widely accepted enhancement for rubies. Controlled high-temperature heating improves colour saturation and reduces the visibility of inclusions.
Common - Well acceptedOther ruby treatments
Less common treatments that affect value and disclosure
Fracture Filling
Glass or lead glass is used to fill surface-reaching fractures, dramatically improving apparent clarity. Significantly reduces value and requires careful disclosure. Not suitable for high-wear settings and can be damaged by heat during resizing or repair.
Significant - Disclose fullyBeryllium Diffusion
A lattice diffusion process that drives beryllium into the stone under high heat, altering surface colour. Often used to create or intensify orange-pink tones. Difficult to detect without advanced testing. Should always be disclosed and is considered a significant treatment.
Significant - Disclose fullySurface Coating
A thin film or coating applied to the surface to improve colour or lustre. The most superficial treatment and the least durable. Highly susceptible to scratching and chemical exposure. Rarely seen in quality stones and must be disclosed.
Significant - Disclose fullyFlux Healing
A high-temperature process where flux material is used to heal or partially seal fractures within the stone. Sometimes difficult to distinguish from natural healing. Considered a form of treatment and should be disclosed when detected by laboratory examination.
Significant - Disclose fullyOrigin and provenance
Where a ruby comes from can significantly influence its value — when the evidence supports it.
Origin can influence a ruby's market perception and pricing, but it should be treated as its own factor, separate from the 4Cs. Two rubies can share a similar colour and size yet differ in value if one has reliable origin documentation or recognised provenance, such as well documented Burmese rubies and fine Mozambique rubies. We prioritise the ruby's beauty, performance, and suitability for long term wear, and we keep provenance clear and honest.
What origin means in practice
Origin can add significant value when the stone quality supports it and the documentation is reliable. Burmese rubies command the highest premiums; Mozambique has established itself as the leading modern source for high-quality material.
-
Burma (Myanmar)
The benchmark for fine ruby. Burmese stones are prized for their vivid red and strong fluorescence, which gives the finest examples their characteristic inner glow.
-
Mozambique
Now the leading modern source for high-quality ruby. Mozambican stones can rival Burmese material in colour and saturation, with strong fluorescence and excellent clarity potential.
-
Sri Lanka
Sri Lankan rubies tend toward a lighter, more pinkish red. Often excellent clarity and transparency. The distinction between ruby and pink sapphire is particularly debated with Sri Lankan material.
-
Other origins
Tanzania, Madagascar, East Africa, and India each produce distinct material. Quality and documentation vary — we assess each stone on its merits and explain provenance honestly.
Rubies vs other gemstones
Every stone has a character. Here is how ruby sits alongside the alternatives.
| EmeraldColour and character | SapphireClassic and durable | RubyRare and vivid | DiamondBrilliance and hardness | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Colour character | Warm, vivid green — unique among gemstones | Rich blue to blue-green range | Pure red — the rarest vivid colour | Colourless — brilliance over colour |
| Durability | 7.5-8 Mohs, prone to chipping | 9 Mohs, excellent for daily wear | 9 Mohs, very durable | 10 Mohs, hardest natural material |
| Rarity | Fine colour is genuinely scarce | Good quality readily available | Fine unheated rubies extremely rare | Abundant at commercial grades |
| Treatment | Oiling is universal and accepted | Heat treatment is standard | Heat and fracture filling common | Most are natural, some laser-drilled |
| Value retention | Strong for certified fine stones | Consistent long-term demand | Finest examples appreciate strongly | Commodity grades less reliable |
| Care required | No ultrasonics, gentle cleaning only | Low maintenance, easy to clean | Low maintenance, very robust | Minimal care needed |
| Price per carat | Premium for fine colour and low oil | Fine Kashmir or Burma commands premium | Highest per-carat of the three | Wide range by cut and certification |
| Character | Jardin inclusions add individuality | Clean, consistent appearance | Silk inclusions can confirm origin | Standardised grading, less unique |
Frequently asked questions
Yes. Ruby is one of the most durable gemstones available, sitting at 9 on the Mohs hardness scale — the same as sapphire, and second only to diamond. It is well suited to daily wear in a ring when set with appropriate protection. We advise on setting styles that suit the stone's depth and corner geometry, particularly for the oval and cushion cuts most common in fine ruby.
Not inherently. Heat treatment is the most common enhancement for ruby and is widely accepted in the trade. What matters is full disclosure, appropriate pricing, and matching expectations to the treatment level. A heated ruby of exceptional colour is a beautiful and sensible choice. We explain treatment for every stone we recommend. Where a stone has been fracture filled or subject to more significant enhancement, we say so clearly and price accordingly.
Yes — and this is usually the better approach. The ring should be designed around the stone, not the other way around. Once you have confirmed a ruby, we design the setting to suit its specific dimensions, depth, and character. This produces a more considered result than designing to a generic specification and finding a stone to fit it.
Yes. We recommend independent laboratory certification for any ruby of significant value. Reports from GIA, Gübelin, or SSEF confirm whether the stone is natural, assess treatment type and degree, and in many cases confirm geographic origin. We advise on which laboratory is most appropriate for the stone in question and assist with the process where needed.
Yes. We source to brief. Tell us the colour range you prefer, the approximate carat weight, your treatment tolerance, and any origin preference. We search our network and present a shortlist with video, photography, and documentation for each stone. Nothing is committed at this stage. You select only if you are confident in what you are looking at.
Yes. Our entire process — stone sourcing, design, approval, and delivery — can be completed remotely. Many of our clients have never visited us in person. We provide detailed video footage and photography of every stone before commitment, and we use video consultation for design reviews. Finished pieces are delivered securely across the UK and internationally.
Still have a question? Our team typically responds within one business day.
The process
Typical timeline
Most bespoke ruby rings take around four to six weeks from approved design to completion. If you have a deadline, include it in your enquiry.
Brief and stone shortlist
We discuss colour preference, size, treatment tolerance, budget, and how the ring will be worn daily. This shapes the sourcing brief.
Stone sourcing and options
We search our network and present a shortlist with video, photography, and laboratory documentation for each stone. Nothing is committed at this stage.
Stone selection and approval
You confirm the final design, stone selection, and agreed pricing. Nothing moves forward without this.
Design, production, and delivery
We design around your stone, refine proportions, cast, set, and finish. You approve the CAD before production begins.
Bespoke - Made to Order - UK Based
Ready to find your ruby?
We source stones to brief, present options with full documentation, and design around your stone once you are confident in it. No pressure, no commitment until you are ready.
Tell us about the ruby you have in mind
Colour, size, treatment preference, budget, setting style — share what you know and we will take it from there.