The short answer: a step cut stone, such as an emerald cut or Asscher cut, looks best in a setting that protects its corners and keeps its clean, geometric lines, such as a corner claw solitaire, a bezel, a hidden halo or a three stone ring. The same idea applies to diamonds and to coloured gemstones.
A step cut has long, parallel facets arranged like a staircase. The effect is a calm, glassy sparkle, rather than the flash of a brilliant cut. It is closely linked with art deco style, and it suits people who like clean, architectural jewellery. Because the corners are trimmed rather than rounded, they need care.
Why step cuts need careful settings
The long facets act like windows, so inclusions and colour are easier to see. The corners are also the weak points, since they are thin and exposed. A well chosen setting covers each corner and keeps the stone secure.
The best settings for a step cut
| Setting | Look | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Corner claw solitaire | Clean and architectural | Covers each corner and shows the lines |
| Bezel | Sleek and secure | Protects every edge |
| Hidden halo | Subtle sparkle | Adds shine without breaking the outline |
| Three stone with baguettes | Art deco | Echoes the step lines |
| Halo | Glamorous | Frames the shape and enlarges the look |
Claw styles for corners
Not all claws protect corners equally. A V shaped claw folds around a corner and covers it completely, which is the most protective option for an emerald cut or Asscher. A double claw places two small claws either side of each corner, which looks delicate and still guards the tips. A single round claw sits on the corner but leaves more exposed. We recommend the style that suits how the ring will be worn.
Step cut diamonds
Step cut diamonds show colour and clarity more than brilliant cuts do. Many buyers choose a stone that looks clean to the eye and a colour that suits the metal. See our guides to settings for an emerald cut and settings for an Asscher cut.
Step cut gemstones
Emerald, aquamarine and sapphire all look wonderful in a step cut. A clean stone shows colour in broad, glassy planes. Stones with many inclusions are usually better in a brilliant cut. Our guide to cleavage and chips explains how care helps.
Proportions
A squarer step cut feels more like an Asscher, and a longer one feels elegant and elongating. The length to width ratio changes the character of the ring, so we can show you options in a render.
Everyday habits
Even with good claws, the corners of a step cut are best kept away from hard knocks. Take the ring off for the gym, gardening and heavy lifting, and avoid tapping it against door frames or desks. Have the claws checked every year or so, since a slightly worn claw over a corner is easy to fix early and much harder to fix after a chip.
Metals
Platinum and white gold look crisp and icy. Yellow gold gives an art deco feel. Rose gold adds warmth.
Natural or lab grown
Both are real, and we label every stone clearly. Browse diamonds and lab grown colourless diamonds.
How to choose
- Choose a clean stone.
- Pick how the corners are protected.
- Choose the metal.
- Approve the design in writing before anything is made.
Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. See our guide to setting types and step cut ovals and cushions. Pieces start from £600.
Frequently asked questions
Is a step cut good for daily wear? Yes, with the corners protected.
Does a step cut sparkle less? It flashes differently, in long bands of light.
Do step cuts show flaws? They show more of the inside, so choose a clean stone.
Which claw protects corners best? A V shaped claw that folds around each corner.
Can I choose a lab grown step cut? Yes, and we label it clearly.