The short answer: an Asscher cut diamond looks best in settings that suit its square step cut and protect its cut corners, such as a classic solitaire, a three stone ring, a hidden halo or a bezel. Because its facets are like windows, choose a clean stone and a setting with simple lines.
The Asscher cut is a square step cut with a deep pavilion and clipped corners. It was developed in the early twentieth century and is a favourite of art deco style. It has a quiet, hall of mirrors sparkle that suits calm, architectural settings.
What an Asscher looks like
You see concentric squares, like a staircase leading into the stone. The effect is graceful and graphic. An Asscher does not sparkle like a round brilliant. It flashes in soft bands of light, and it rewards a clean, clear stone.
The best settings for an Asscher
| Setting | Look | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Solitaire with corner claws | Pure and architectural | Protects the clipped corners |
| Three stone | Art deco | Side stones echo the step lines |
| Hidden halo | Subtle sparkle | Adds shine without breaking the lines |
| Halo | Glamorous | Frames the square and enlarges the look |
| Bezel | Sleek and secure | Protects every edge |
| Engraved band | Deco detail | Adds period character |
Side stones that suit an Asscher
In a three stone ring, the side stones shape the whole look. Tapered baguettes continue the step cut lines and feel very art deco. Small trapezoids or half moons give a softer outline, and smaller Asschers either side make a bold, geometric ring. Round brilliants add contrast, with lively sparkle beside the calm centre. We can show each option in a render so you can compare.
Claw shapes
The way the claws grip the corners changes the look. V shaped claws wrap the clipped corners and protect them best. Double claws at each corner give extra security and a detailed, vintage feel. Rounded claws are softer but leave the corners more exposed. We recommend a style that suits how the ring will be worn.
Clarity and colour
A step cut shows more of what is inside it, so clarity and colour matter. Many buyers choose a stone that looks clean to the eye and a colour that suits the metal. We can look at several options with you on video.
Asscher or emerald cut?
An Asscher is square, and an emerald cut is rectangular. Both are step cuts. If you want a more traditional square look, choose an Asscher. If you want an elongated look, choose an emerald cut. See emerald vs radiant cut for another step cut comparison.
Asscher or cushion?
An Asscher has crisp edges and step facets. A cushion has soft edges and a brilliant sparkle. See Asscher vs cushion diamonds.
Protecting the corners
The clipped corners are the weak spots. Corner claws or a bezel protect them. See protecting the corners of step cut stones.
Metals
Platinum and white gold look crisp. Yellow gold suits a vintage style. Rose gold adds warmth.
Natural or lab grown
Both are real diamonds, and we label each clearly. Browse diamonds and lab grown colourless diamonds.
How to choose
- Choose a clean stone.
- Pick the setting style.
- Choose the metal.
- Approve the design in writing before anything is made.
Our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. See diamond shapes guide. Pieces start from £600.
Frequently asked questions
Is an Asscher good for daily wear? Yes, with protected corners.
Is it a good vintage choice? Yes, it is closely linked with art deco.
Does it look smaller than other shapes? It can look smaller from above for its weight.
Which side stones suit it? Baguettes and trapezoids suit its step lines well.
Can I order from overseas? Yes, by video consultation, with insured, tracked FedEx delivery.