The short answer: choose a diamond shape by the look you want and your hand, because round gives the most sparkle, oval and pear elongate the finger, cushion is soft and romantic, and emerald and Asscher cuts feel sleek and vintage. Each shape also suits certain settings.
Shape is the outline of a diamond. It is personal, and no single shape suits everyone.
| Shape | Character | Suits |
|---|---|---|
| Round | Classic, high sparkle | Solitaire, halo |
| Oval | Elegant, elongating | Solitaire, hidden halo |
| Cushion | Soft, romantic | Halo, vintage styles |
| Emerald | Sleek, step cut | Solitaire, three stone |
| Pear | Distinctive, flowing | Solitaire, east west |
| Marquise | Dramatic, long | Solitaire |
| Radiant | Bright, rectangular | Solitaire, halo |
| Princess | Modern, sharp corners | Solitaire, bezel |
| Asscher | Art deco square step cut | Solitaire |
| Heart | Romantic, distinctive | Solitaire |
Think about your hand
Elongated shapes can make fingers look longer. Round and square shapes feel balanced. If you have short fingers, a narrow shape set north south often flatters. If you have long fingers, a wider shape suits well. These are guides, not rules, and trying a shape on video helps.
Think about sparkle
Brilliant cuts such as round, oval and cushion give lively sparkle. Step cuts such as emerald and Asscher give a quiet, glassy flash, which some people prefer.
Think about the bow tie
Elongated brilliant shapes, such as oval, pear and marquise, can show a darker band across the middle of the stone, known as a bow tie. In some stones it is barely visible, and in others it is obvious from across a room. A photograph rarely tells you which, so ask to see the stone moving on video. Our guide to the bow tie effect explains what to look for.
Think about size
Carat is weight, so two stones of the same weight can look different in size depending on shape. Elongated shapes often show a larger surface for their weight, while deep stones hide weight beneath the surface.
Think about your lifestyle
If you work with your hands, cook a lot, climb or lift weights, a lower, more protected setting such as a bezel or a low claw setting on a rounded shape is more comfortable and snags less. If you want a ring for special occasions as well as everyday wear, a taller setting with a more dramatic shape may suit you. Tell us how you live and we will suggest what works.
Think about your style
- Classic and timeless: round, oval, emerald.
- Soft and romantic: cushion, pear, heart.
- Vintage and art deco: Asscher, emerald, cushion.
- Modern and bold: marquise, radiant, elongated shapes.
- Something different: our guide to unusual diamond shapes beyond oval and round goes beyond the familiar list.
Durability
Pointed corners, as on pear, marquise and princess, benefit from protection in the setting. See cleavage and chips.
Comparing two shapes you cannot choose between
Many people find they are torn between two similar shapes. If you are choosing between a square step cut and a softer, pillowy stone, our guide to Asscher vs cushion diamonds shows the difference side by side. Seeing both on video, held in the same light, usually settles it.
Choosing
- Pick two or three shapes you like.
- Look at them on video.
- Choose by feel.
Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
See setting types. Browse diamonds and lab grown colourless diamonds.
Frequently asked questions
Which shape looks biggest? Elongated shapes often look larger for their weight.
Which is most traditional? Round.
Can I change shape later? Not easily, since the setting is made for the stone.
Can you show me shapes on video? Yes.
Which shape is most practical for daily wear? Rounded outlines with protected settings, such as round, oval and cushion, tend to snag least.
Do round diamonds have a bow tie? Rarely, because the effect mostly appears in elongated brilliant shapes.