A step cut oval or step cut cushion is a diamond with the familiar oval or cushion outline but faceted with long, parallel steps like an emerald cut, instead of the small triangular facets of a brilliant. The result is a calmer, glassier look with broad flashes of light rather than lots of small sparkles.
How step cutting works
Step cuts use rows of long facets that run parallel to the edges of the stone, like steps on a staircase. The emerald and Asscher cuts are the best known examples. The look is often described as a hall of mirrors: open, clear windows of light instead of busy sparkle. Applying that faceting to curved outlines gives the step cut oval and step cut cushion.
Step cut oval
A step cut oval keeps the elongated, soft outline of an oval, but the facets follow its curves in concentric rings. It tends to look sleek and architectural, and it often has an antique feel. Because the faceting is different, step cut ovals usually show less of the dark bow tie common in brilliant ovals, although the centre can look more open.
Step cut cushion
A step cut cushion has the rounded square or rectangular outline of a cushion with stepped facets. It can look like a softer version of an Asscher or emerald cut. It suits vintage and Art Deco styles and pairs well with plain or tapered bands.
What to check before buying
Clarity
Large, open facets show the inside of the stone more clearly, so inclusions are easier to spot than in a brilliant cut. Many buyers look at higher clarity grades for step cuts, or check the stone closely on video. Our clarity guide explains the scale.
Colour
Step cuts also tend to show body colour more than brilliants, which mask it with sparkle. Consider this when choosing colour, especially in larger stones or white metal settings.
Proportions and windowing
Without the brilliant's many facets, a step cut relies heavily on good proportions. A poorly cut stone can look washed out in the centre. Ask for videos in different lighting.
Report wording
These are not separate laboratory shapes, so a report may describe the stone in general terms with a note on the faceting style. Check the report wording and measurements rather than relying on the name.
Choosing a setting
Step cuts reward settings that let their clean facets be seen. Slim claws or a fine bezel keep attention on the stone, and a low profile setting suits the calm, architectural look. Because the outline is curved, protective claws do not need to be as heavy as those used on sharp cornered shapes.
Who they suit
Step cut ovals and cushions suit someone who likes the calm elegance of an emerald cut but wants a softer outline. They work well in east west settings, bezels and minimalist solitaires. For more on square step cuts, see our Asscher cut guide, and browse oval engagement rings for setting ideas, each crafted by specialist goldsmiths.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a step cut oval? It is a diamond with an oval outline faceted with long, parallel steps like an emerald cut, rather than brilliant facets.
Do step cut diamonds sparkle? They sparkle differently. Step cuts show broad flashes of light and a hall of mirrors look rather than the busy sparkle of brilliant cuts.
Do step cuts show inclusions more? Generally yes. Their open facets make inclusions and body colour easier to see than in brilliant cuts.
Does a step cut oval have a bow tie? Step cut ovals tend to show less of the classic bow tie than brilliant ovals, but the centre can look more open, so check videos.
Is a step cut cushion the same as an Asscher? No. An Asscher is a square step cut with deeply cut corners, while a step cut cushion has a softer, rounded outline.
Last reviewed: November 2026 · À Vie Diamonds