An Asscher cut is a square step cut diamond with cropped corners, which gives it an octagonal outline and a layered, hall of mirrors look when you look down into the stone. It suits people who love Art Deco style and prefer broad flashes of light to the busy sparkle of a round brilliant. Our Asscher cut engagement rings page shows how we approach the design.
The cut was developed in the early twentieth century in Amsterdam and became popular in the Art Deco period. Here is what to know if you are considering one.
What makes an Asscher cut different
Step cuts have long, flat facets arranged in steps, like a staircase seen from above. In an Asscher, those steps run in concentric squares toward the centre, creating a window like pattern. The deep pavilion and high crown help produce the hall of mirrors effect it is known for.
It is often compared with the emerald cut, which uses the same step faceting in a rectangle. Our comparison of cushion, princess and Asscher engagement rings shows how it differs from other square shapes.
What to look for in an Asscher diamond
- Clarity. Step cuts have open facets, so inclusions are easier to see than in a brilliant cut. Many clients choose a slightly higher clarity grade than they would for a round.
- Colour. Step cuts can show colour a little more, so a higher colour grade is worth considering, especially in white metals.
- Proportions. A well cut Asscher shows clear, even steps and a defined pattern. A shallow stone can look glassy and lose the mirror effect.
- Shape. Most Asschers are close to square. Check the length to width ratio on the report if you want a true square.
Settings that suit an Asscher
- Four claw solitaire. Claws at the cropped corners keep the outline clean.
- Halo. A halo, often in a square or octagonal shape, adds sparkle around the step cut and leans into the Art Deco feel.
- Trilogy. An Asscher between two smaller stones, such as baguettes or tapered baguettes, creates a striking vintage line.
- Bezel or partial bezel. A metal rim gives a sleek, modern look and protects the corners.
Does an Asscher look smaller?
Because much of its weight sits in its depth, an Asscher can look slightly smaller face up than a round or oval of the same carat weight. Some clients balance this with a slim band or a halo. Others simply love the depth and pattern and choose it for that reason.
Asscher in lab grown diamonds
Lab grown Asscher diamonds have the same physical and optical properties as mined diamonds and come with the same grading reports. Choosing lab grown can make a larger or higher grade Asscher more achievable within your budget. Browse our lab grown diamonds to see the options.
Wedding bands for an Asscher ring
A straight band sits well beside a claw set Asscher if the stone is high enough. A low setting or a halo may need a shaped band. Our guide to choosing a wedding band to match your engagement ring explains how to plan the pair.
Designing yours with us
Every piece is designed with you in CAD first, and you can have as many revisions as you need, within reason. Once you are happy, a 70% deposit starts the making. Your piece is crafted by specialist goldsmiths, UK hallmarked and sent by insured tracked courier. Diamonds come with a GIA or IGI report. Bespoke rings start from £600.
Browse our lab grown diamonds, design your bespoke engagement ring, or read about the bespoke journey to see how a commission works from first chat to delivery.
Frequently asked questions
What is an Asscher cut diamond?
A square step cut diamond with cropped corners, known for its layered hall of mirrors pattern.
Is an Asscher the same as a square emerald cut?
They are close relatives. Both are step cuts, but an Asscher is square with larger cropped corners and usually a higher crown.
What clarity is best for an Asscher?
Step cuts show inclusions more easily, so many people choose a slightly higher clarity grade than for a round.
Do Asscher diamonds look smaller?
They can look slightly smaller face up than a round of the same weight, because more weight sits in their depth.