The short answer: platinum is dense, naturally white and hard wearing, gold comes in yellow, white and rose with different carat purities, and silver is softer and better suited to lighter or occasional pieces. Choose by colour, durability and budget.
The metal frames the stone and affects comfort and care. Here is how the main options compare.
| Metal | Colour | Durability | Care |
|---|---|---|---|
| Platinum | Natural white | High, develops a patina | Polish if wished |
| White gold | White, often plated | High | May need replating |
| Yellow gold | Warm yellow | Good | Easy to polish |
| Rose gold | Pink toned | Good | Easy to polish |
| Silver | Bright white | Softer | Tarnishes, needs care |
Platinum
Platinum is a naturally white metal and holds stones securely. Over time it develops a soft, satin patina, which some people love and others polish away. It suits those who want a colour that stays as it is.
Gold
Gold is mixed with other metals for strength. The carat number shows the proportion of gold, and higher numbers are purer and softer. Colour comes from the mix, so yellow, white and rose gold are different alloys of the same metal.
White gold
White gold is often finished with rhodium for a bright white look, and over time that surface can wear, which is why some owners have it refreshed. We talk through what suits your ring when we design it. See polishing or replating.
Yellow and rose gold
These warm colours come from the metal itself, so they need only polishing. Rose gold has a gentle pink tone that flatters many skin tones, and yellow gold has a classic, traditional look.
Silver
Silver is affordable and attractive, but it is softer and tarnishes. It is less suited to engagement rings that are worn daily. Ask us which metals suit your design.
Matching the metal to the stone
Metal colour changes how a stone appears. White metals such as platinum and white gold keep a colourless diamond looking cool and bright. Yellow and rose gold add warmth and can make a diamond with a faint warm tone look more at home. Coloured stones such as sapphire and emerald often look rich in yellow gold, while morganite and pink stones pair naturally with rose gold. If you are undecided, we can show the same design in two metals on video so you can compare.
Skin and comfort
Most people tolerate gold and platinum well. If you have sensitive skin, tell us so we can talk through the options. Weight matters too, since platinum feels heavier on the finger than gold.
Wedding bands and mixed metals
If you plan to wear a wedding band beside your engagement ring, matching the metals helps them wear in the same way and avoids one rubbing against the other. Some people deliberately mix metals for a contemporary look, which works well when it is planned from the start. For a direct comparison of two popular choices, see our platinum vs white gold comparison.
How to choose
- Pick the colour you love.
- Think about wear.
- Match your other jewellery.
- Consider the budget.
Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
See setting types and cost of owning a bespoke ring.
Frequently asked questions
Is platinum worth it? It depends on your priorities, such as colour, weight and budget.
Which metal is cheapest? Silver, then gold of lower carat.
Can I switch metal later? A ring can sometimes be remade, so ask us.
Which metal suits a wedding band set? Matching metals tend to wear alike, so we talk through the pairing.
Does white gold turn yellow? The rhodium finish can wear over time and show the warmer tone underneath, which a jeweller can refresh.