The short answer: an emerald ring looks best in a setting that protects the stone's corners and edges, such as a bezel, a halo, a three stone ring or a low profile claw setting with corner protection. Emerald is fairly hard but can be fragile, because natural inclusions and fractures make it vulnerable to knocks, so a protective setting matters as much as the look.
Emerald is the green member of the beryl family, and its colour is one of the most admired in jewellery. It ranks about 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, so it resists scratches reasonably well, but it often contains tiny fractures that make it more vulnerable to knocks than its hardness suggests. That is why the setting is so important.
Inclusions in emerald
Most natural emeralds have inclusions, sometimes called the jardin, which is French for garden. They are part of the character of the stone, and many are treated with oil or resin to improve clarity. We explain what we know about each stone. Our guides to cleavage and chips and emerald oil, jardin and clarity explain why careful settings and careful wear matter.
The best settings for an emerald
| Setting | Look | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Bezel | Sleek and secure | Protects every edge and corner |
| Halo | Glamorous | Diamonds make the green look vivid and add a little protection |
| Three stone | Meaningful | Diamond side stones add contrast |
| Corner claw solitaire | Classic | Covers the corners of an emerald cut |
| Low vintage setting | Antique | Sits close to the finger and suits yellow gold |
Setting height
A tall setting shows off an emerald and lets light in from the sides, but it also exposes the stone to knocks. A lower setting keeps the stone closer to the finger, where it is better protected. For a ring worn every day, many people choose a moderate height with a protective rim or claws. We show the height in a side view render so you can judge it.
The emerald cut
The classic emerald cut was designed for this stone, with trimmed corners that reduce the risk of chipping. It shows colour well, but it also shows inclusions. Other shapes, such as ovals and cushions, are popular too. See our guide to protecting the corners of step cut stones.
Metals
Yellow gold gives emerald a warm, classic look. Platinum and white gold make the green look cool and fresh. Rose gold feels softer and more modern.
Natural or lab grown
Both are real emeralds with the same chemistry. Lab grown emeralds tend to have fewer visible inclusions, and natural stones form in the earth. We label every stone clearly. See lab grown sapphire, ruby and emerald vs natural, and browse diamonds for side stones.
Repairs and resizing
Because emeralds can be sensitive to heat and are often oiled, any work on the ring needs care. A jeweller may remove the stone before resizing or repairing the band, then reset it afterwards. Tell whoever works on the ring that it holds an emerald, and keep any report with the ring.
Daily wear
Many people wear emerald rings every day, but it is wise to take the ring off for heavy work, avoid knocks and keep it away from ultrasonic cleaners, steam and sudden temperature changes. Clean it with warm soapy water and a soft brush, which is safe for emerald.
How to choose
- Choose the green you love on video.
- Decide how much protection you need.
- Pick the metal.
- Approve the design in writing before anything is made.
Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. See our guide to setting types and tsavorite for a tougher green alternative. Pieces start from £600.
Frequently asked questions
Is emerald good for an engagement ring? Yes with care and a protective setting.
Is oiling normal? Yes, it is common, and we explain what we know about each stone.
Can I use a lab grown emerald? Yes, and we label it clearly.
Which metal is best? Yellow gold is popular, but other metals work well too.
Can an emerald ring be resized? Usually, with care, and the stone may be removed first.