The short answer: lab grown sapphire, ruby and emerald have the same chemical makeup and crystal structure as natural stones, but they are made in a controlled setting, so they are typically cleaner and cost less, while natural stones carry geological origin and rarity. Both are real gemstones, and we describe each clearly.
Choosing between natural and lab grown is a personal decision. This guide sets out the differences honestly.
What they have in common
Both are corundum for ruby and sapphire, and beryl for emerald. They have the same hardness and the same look to the eye.
Side by side
| Natural | Lab grown | |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Formed in the earth | Made in a laboratory |
| Clarity | Usually has inclusions | Often cleaner |
| Price | Higher, especially for fine stones | Lower for similar size and look |
| Rarity | Rare in top quality | Can be produced to order |
| Treatment | Often heated or oiled | Usually fewer treatments |
Reasons people choose natural
- They value geological origin and rarity.
- They like natural character in a stone.
- They want a stone with a story.
Reasons people choose lab grown
- They want a larger or cleaner stone for the budget.
- They value knowing the stone was made in a controlled setting.
- They like a consistent colour.
How they are told apart
To the eye, a lab grown and a natural stone can look the same. A gemmological laboratory tells them apart by looking at inclusions, growth patterns and the way the stone reacts to certain light. Natural stones often show tiny crystals or silk, while lab grown stones may show curved growth lines or small gas bubbles. A report states which type you have, and we help you read it.
Emerald is a special case
Natural emeralds almost always contain inclusions and are often oiled. Lab grown emeralds tend to be much cleaner, which changes how they look and how they wear. If you love a vivid, clear green and want to avoid oil, lab grown emerald is worth a look. If you value the character of a natural stone, the inclusions are part of its story. See emerald oil, jardin and clarity.
Honest labelling
We label every stone as natural or lab grown. Reports can confirm the type, and we help you read them.
Durability is the same
A lab grown sapphire is as hard as a natural one, and a lab grown ruby is as hard as a natural ruby. The difference is in origin, clarity and price, not in everyday wear. Both suit the same settings, and both need the same sensible care. See the hardness chart.
Colour choice
Lab grown stones are made in a controlled setting, so a particular colour can often be matched closely, which helps when you want a pair of earrings or a row of stones that look even. Natural stones vary more, and finding a close match can take longer, but some people love that each one is slightly different.
How to decide
- Decide what matters most: origin, size, clarity or budget.
- Look at both types on video.
- Choose the one that feels right.
See heated vs unheated sapphires and pigeon blood and glass filled rubies, and browse diamonds for accent stones. Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
Frequently asked questions
Are lab grown stones real? Yes, they are real gemstones made in a laboratory.
Do they look different? To the eye they are very similar.
Which holds value better? Natural fine stones tend to have a stronger secondary market, but we cannot promise future value.
Can I mix natural and lab grown in one ring? Yes, and we label each stone clearly.
Can I order from overseas? Yes, by video consultation, with insured, tracked FedEx delivery.