The short answer: emeralds almost always contain inclusions, called jardin, and many are treated with oil or resin to improve clarity, so judge an emerald by colour and overall beauty, and expect some internal character. Ask about treatment and care for it gently.
Unlike diamonds, emeralds are valued for colour first, and clarity is judged differently. Understanding oil and jardin helps you choose well.
What jardin means
Jardin is the French word for garden, and it refers to the mossy looking inclusions typical in emeralds. They are natural, and they form part of the stone's fingerprint. A completely clean natural emerald is very rare.
Clarity in emeralds
Emerald clarity is judged by how much the inclusions affect the beauty and durability of the stone. Some inclusions cause fractures that can make a stone more fragile. Stones with visible, large inclusions may need extra protection.
Oil and treatment
Many emeralds have been treated with oil or resin that fills fine fractures and makes them less visible. This is common and accepted when it is disclosed. Treatment levels vary, and reports describe them.
| Level | Meaning |
|---|---|
| None | No filling detected, which is rare. |
| Minor | A small amount of filler. |
| Moderate | A noticeable amount. |
| Significant | A lot of filler, which affects value and care. |
Terms differ between laboratories, so read the wording on the report, and we can help you interpret it.
Oil, resin and what is the difference
Traditional treatment uses natural oils, often cedar oil, which can fade over time and may need refreshing. Modern treatments may use resins, which are more stable but are harder to reverse. A report should say which was used. Ask us if it is unclear.
How to judge an emerald by eye
Start with colour. A good emerald has a clear, vivid green that looks lively rather than murky, and it is neither too pale nor so dark that it looks black in low light. Then look at the stone from several angles and in different lights, and notice whether the inclusions interrupt the colour or simply add texture. Finally, check the cut, because a good cut brings out the green and a poor one can leave dull patches. We show stones on video in daylight and indoor light so you can see how they behave.
Caring for an emerald
- Avoid ultrasonic cleaners, steam and harsh chemicals.
- Clean with lukewarm soapy water and a soft brush.
- Take the ring off for heavy work.
- Have it checked from time to time.
Choosing a setting for an emerald
Emeralds are often cut as rectangles with trimmed corners, and those corners need protection. A bezel or a halo covers the edges, and a low setting reduces the risk of knocks. If you plan to wear the ring every day, tell us, and we will suggest a design that balances beauty and protection. Our guide to best settings for emerald goes through the options.
Lab grown alternative
Lab grown emeralds tend to be cleaner and may not need oil. We describe each clearly. Ask us about natural and lab grown emeralds, and see our guide to lab grown sapphire, ruby and emerald vs natural.
How to choose
- Choose the green you love.
- Check the report for treatment.
- Accept some jardin as natural character.
- Pick a protective setting.
See best settings for emerald and cleavage and chips. Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
Frequently asked questions
Is oiling a problem? Not if it is disclosed, and it is very common.
Do emeralds need re oiling? Sometimes, and we can advise.
Is a flawless emerald realistic? It is extremely rare in natural stones.
Can I clean an emerald at home? Yes, gently, with lukewarm soapy water and a soft brush.