TL;DR: the Asscher cut is a square step cut with cropped corners, and the Royal Asscher is a later, modified version with extra facets. They look similar at a glance, but they behave differently in the light, with the Asscher giving a deep, calm, hall of mirrors glow and the Royal Asscher a slightly busier, sparklier look. Neither is better, so it comes down to taste. Pieces start from £600.
The classic Asscher
A square step cut with long, straight facets and cropped corners. GIA's public guide to diamond shapes describes the Asscher as a step cut, similar to the emerald cut in a more compact form, with a high crown and a small table. The result is a deep, glassy look, often described as a hall of mirrors. It feels art deco, calm and architectural, and it shows clarity and colour openly.
The Royal Asscher
A later modification of the Asscher, with extra facets that add some sparkle while keeping the square outline and cropped corners. It is a step cut at heart, but a little busier in the light. Royal Asscher is a trademarked cut made by the Royal Asscher company, so genuine stones come through that company's own network.
The differences in practice
- Look: the Asscher is calmer, and the Royal Asscher is slightly more sparkly.
- Outline: both are square with cropped corners.
- Availability: well cut Asschers are fairly uncommon. A branded Royal Asscher is rarer still, because it comes from one maker.
- Clarity: both show inclusions more than a brilliant cut, so look closely at the stone.
Seeing the difference
The easiest way to understand the two is to look at them side by side. In a still photograph they can seem almost identical, but on video, as the stone moves, the Asscher shows broad, slow flashes while the Royal Asscher shows more, smaller flashes. If you love the look of a Royal Asscher, we can show you well cut Asscher stones on video and talk through what is available for your commission. If you cannot see a clear difference, it may be that either would make you equally happy.
Which to choose
- An Asscher suits you if you love a clean, calm, vintage look.
- A Royal Asscher suits you if you like step cut geometry with a little more sparkle.
Settings
Both suit corner claws, a bezel and a slim band. Baguette side stones echo the step facets. Fine Asschers often have no culet, so the setting should protect the point at the base of the stone as well as the corners. Our guide to settings for an Asscher cut goes into detail, and protecting the corners of step cut stones explains how to check a design.
Metal and finish
Platinum or white gold suits the icy, deco character of an Asscher, while yellow gold gives it a warm, vintage feel. A milgrain edge or a fine engraved pattern adds period detail, and a plain polished band feels modern. The choice depends on the mood you want, and we can show each combination in a CAD render before anything is made.
Choosing the stone
Step cuts show clarity and colour openly. Check the stone on video, and read the report for any comments. Our clarity scale guide explains the grades. See also Asscher versus cushion diamonds if you are unsure between the two, or our Asscher cut engagement rings page.
Working with us
We work by video consultation and message, send sketches and CAD renders, and make nothing until you approve the design in writing. Standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, varying with your location and how busy we are. Overseas, the customer pays import duty and tax, and delivery is insured and tracked with FedEx.
Frequently asked questions
Is a Royal Asscher better?
Neither is better. It is a matter of taste.
Can you source a Royal Asscher?
Royal Asscher stones come through the Royal Asscher company's own network. Ask us, and we tell you honestly what we can find for your brief.
Can I see stones on video?
Yes, we can show you what is available.
What does a ring cost?
Pieces start from £600.