The short answer: cufflinks need a shirt with cuffs that have holes on both sides, such as a double cuff, also called a French cuff, or a single cuff with button holes. The link type, whether a bullet back, a whale back, a chain or a fixed post, affects how easy they are to wear.
If you are choosing cufflinks, start with the shirt. The right link for a double cuff may not suit a single cuff.
Shirt cuffs
| Cuff | Description |
|---|---|
| Double cuff | Folded back on itself, with holes on both sides, and the classic cufflink shirt. |
| Single cuff with holes | A convertible cuff that takes links or buttons. |
| Button cuff | No holes, so it does not take cufflinks. |
Cufflink types
- Bullet back: a bar that swivels into place, easy to use.
- Whale back: a flat toggle that flips, secure and common.
- Chain link: two faces joined by a chain, more flexible.
- Fixed post: a rigid post with a back, traditional.
- Stud style: screw backs, mostly for dress shirts.
Choosing
For daily wear, bullet or whale backs are easy. For evening wear, a classic fixed or chain link looks refined. Check the weight, since heavy links can pull on a cuff.
Kissing cuffs and barrel cuffs
With a double cuff, the two edges are usually pressed together so they meet like a closed book, sometimes called a kissing cuff. This is the traditional way to wear links, and it shows the face of the cufflink on the outside of the wrist. Some people wear the edges overlapped like a barrel cuff, which works with single cuffs and looks more relaxed. Both are fine; the kissing style is more formal.
Size
Face sizes vary. A medium sized face works with most shirts, and a larger one makes more of a statement. A face of around one to one and a half centimetres is a common starting point for business wear.
Double cuff or single cuff
A double cuff has a formal, polished look because the cuff is doubled and the link shows on both sides. A single cuff with holes looks slightly more modern and understated. If you mostly wear business shirts, check which cuffs you own before choosing links.
Matching with a watch
Cufflinks sit close to a watch on the same wrist, so it is worth matching the metal colour. A gold watch suits gold links, and steel or white gold suits white metals. A slimmer link on the watch side stops the cuff from catching on the case.
Materials
Cufflinks can be gold or platinum, plain or set with diamonds or gemstones. We discuss the metals and stones available when we plan your design. Our guides to platinum cufflinks and gold, silver and platinum cufflinks compare the metals.
How to wear
- Fold the cuff back and align the holes.
- Pass the link through from the outside.
- Turn the toggle so it sits flat.
Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
See black tie jewellery rules, engraved cufflinks and our complete cufflinks buying guide.
Frequently asked questions
Can I wear cufflinks with a normal shirt? Only if the cuffs have holes.
Which type is easiest? Whale back and bullet back.
What is a kissing cuff? A double cuff with the two edges pressed together, the traditional way to wear links.
Can I get a custom design? Yes, we design bespoke cufflinks.
Can I order from overseas? Yes, by video consultation, with insured, tracked FedEx delivery.