Cufflinks: A Complete Buying Guide

Cufflinks fasten the two sides of a shirt cuff together in place of a button, and have done so since shirts first came with cuffs that had no buttons at all. What began as a purely functional fastening has become one of the few pieces of jewellery a man is expected to wear — which makes it one of the most overlooked opportunities for a genuinely personal, well-made piece.

TL;DR: Cufflinks are only needed for shirts with unbuttoned French or double cuffs. The fastening mechanism (bullet back, whale back, or chain link) matters more for daily comfort than most buyers realise. Gold and silver are the standard metals, and engraving — initials, a crest, or increasingly a fingerprint or coordinates — is what turns a functional item into a meaningful one.

On this page: History · Fastening types · Choosing a metal · Personalising · When to wear them · As a gift · Cost · Related reading · FAQs

A Brief History of Cufflinks

Before the 17th century, shirt cuffs were closed with string or ribbon ties. Simple linked-button fastenings appeared over the following century, and by the Victorian era cufflinks in gold and silver — sometimes set with stones — had become a standard part of formal dress. Their function has not changed since: a French or double cuff shirt has no buttonholes on the cuff at all, so it cannot be closed without a cufflink or a similar fastening.

How Cufflink Fastenings Work

The fastening mechanism is the part most buyers never think about until they own a pair that is awkward to put on one-handed. The main types:

Fastening How it works Best for
Bullet back A hinged toggle swivels flat to pass through the cuff, then flips upright to lock in place Easiest for one-handed daily use; the most common modern fastening
Whale back A flat paddle-shaped back that folds down to pass through the cuff Classic look, slightly fiddlier to fasten alone
Chain link Two faces connected by a short chain, passed through both cuff holes Traditional formal wear; more visible from the underside of the cuff
Ball return A fixed post with a solid ball or bar on the back, no moving parts Very secure, but requires a looser buttonhole to fit through

Choosing a Metal

9ct gold — lighter and more affordable than 18ct, the practical choice given cufflinks are sized well above a ring in gold weight.

18ct gold — deeper colour and higher gold content, chosen for a milestone or heirloom pair rather than everyday wear.

Platinum — the most durable and heaviest option; a genuinely investment-grade choice but a significant step up in cost given the weight involved.

Silver — the most affordable and lightest metal, a sensible starting point for a first bespoke pair or a design worn daily. See our full gold vs silver vs platinum comparison and Argentium silver guide for the full detail.

Personalising Cufflinks

Cufflinks are one of the easiest pieces of jewellery to personalise because the face is a blank canvas by design. Common options:

  • Initials or monogram — the most requested and most versatile option.
  • Family crest — mirrors the signet ring tradition, often commissioned as a matching pair.
  • Fingerprint or coordinate engraving — a genuinely modern addition: a loved one's fingerprint, or the coordinates of a specific place, engraved into the face. Popular as a wedding day gift between partners.
  • Gemstone or enamel detail — a cabochon stone or coloured enamel face for a more decorative, less strictly formal pair.

When to Wear Cufflinks

Cufflinks are only needed for shirts with French or double cuffs — the cuff folds back on itself and has no buttonholes of its own. A standard button-cuff shirt cannot take cufflinks and does not need them. French cuff shirts are standard for black tie, weddings, and formal business settings, but are increasingly worn with a suit more generally by anyone who wants the slightly more finished look.

Cufflinks as a Gift

Cufflinks sit in a useful gifting gap: substantial enough to mark a real occasion, but without the sizing risk of a ring. Common occasions include:

  • Wedding day gifts between partners, or from a groom to his groomsmen — often matched across the wedding party with individual initials. See our full wedding cufflinks gift guide.
  • Milestone birthdays, particularly 30th, 40th, and 50th
  • Promotions, retirements, and career milestones
  • Father's Day and Christmas, where a personalised pair outperforms a generic one

How Much Do Bespoke Cufflinks Cost?

Cost is driven by metal weight (cufflinks generally use more metal than a ring), metal type, and the complexity of any engraving or stone setting. A simple engraved pair in silver or 9ct gold sits at the lower end of the price range; an 18ct gold or platinum pair with detailed hand engraving or gemstone detail sits considerably higher. As with signet rings, the most accurate figure comes from a personalised quote — get in touch with your brief and budget and we'll come back with realistic options.

Bespoke Cufflinks at À Vie Diamonds

We design cufflinks the same way we design every commission: a free consultation, a CAD or design render for your written approval, and delivery in 4–6 weeks. Cufflinks pair naturally with a matching signet ring for a coordinated set, and make a natural companion gift alongside our men's personalised bracelets. If you're buying for a wedding, our guide to men's platinum wedding bands is a useful next read for the same occasion.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do all shirts need cufflinks? No. Only shirts with French or double cuffs, which have no buttonholes on the cuff itself, require cufflinks to close.

What is the easiest cufflink fastening to use one-handed? Bullet back fastenings are generally the easiest for one-handed daily use, since the hinged toggle folds flat to pass through the cuff.

What metal should I choose for everyday cufflinks? Silver or 9ct gold are the most practical choices for daily wear, given cufflinks carry more metal weight than a ring.

Can cufflinks be engraved with a fingerprint? Yes. Fingerprint and coordinate engraving are increasingly popular, particularly as wedding day gifts.

How long does a bespoke pair of cufflinks take to make? Most bespoke cufflink commissions take 4–6 weeks from approved design to delivery.

Last reviewed: July 2026 · À Vie Diamonds

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