The short answer: with black tie, keep jewellery minimal and consistent: a set of studs and cufflinks in the same metal, a slim dress watch and little else. Quiet quality is the aim, and the details matter more than the number of pieces.
Black tie follows a clear tradition, and jewellery should support it, not compete with it.
The essentials
| Piece | Guidance |
|---|---|
| Shirt studs | Worn on the front placket in place of buttons. |
| Cufflinks | Match the studs in metal and style. |
| Watch | Slim, simple and leather strapped, or none at all. |
| Rings | A wedding band and perhaps a signet, kept restrained. |
Metals
Match the metal across studs and links. Platinum, white gold and yellow gold are all appropriate. Mother of pearl, onyx and plain polished finishes are classics.
Stones
Small, discreet diamonds are acceptable. Large stones or bright colour can feel too much for the occasion.
Matching to the watch and rings
If you wear a dress watch, let its case colour guide the rest. A gold watch pairs naturally with gold studs and links, and a steel or white gold watch with white metals. A wedding band in a different metal is fine, since it is worn every day, but a signet ring looks neatest when it matches the studs. Our guide to how to wear a signet ring covers which finger and how much is too much.
What to skip
- Large or novelty cufflinks.
- Heavy chains over a dress shirt.
- Several rings at once.
Lapel pins and tie bars
A lapel pin is usually left off with black tie, or kept very discreet. Tie bars are not worn with a bow tie.
Shirt studs and fastenings
Studs replace the buttons down the front of a dress shirt and are usually a set of three or four. Check that your shirt has the right holes and that the studs are the right length for the placket, so they sit flat and do not pull. We can design studs to match your links.
White tie and morning dress
White tie is the most formal dress code and follows similar rules, with white or mother of pearl studs often preferred. Morning dress, worn at many daytime weddings, is less strict: a double cuff shirt with smart cufflinks, a tie bar if you like, and a pocket watch chain for those who enjoy a traditional touch. For a wedding, our guide to wedding cufflinks for the groom and groomsmen has ideas.
A coordinated set
A set of studs and links designed together gives a polished look and can be an heirloom. We can design a bespoke set in your choice of metal. Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
- Choose the metal.
- Choose the face material or stone.
- Check the stud fastening suits your shirt.
Care between events
Formal jewellery spends most of its life in a drawer. Store studs and links in a lined box with separate compartments so they do not scratch each other, and wipe them with a soft cloth after wearing. Check the fittings before each event, because a stiff toggle is easier to fix in good time than on the night.
See cufflink types, platinum cufflinks and our complete cufflinks buying guide.
Frequently asked questions
Can I wear a signet ring with black tie? Yes, if it is modest.
Do studs need to match links? Matching looks neat.
Is a watch necessary? No.
What changes for white tie? The rules are similar, with white or mother of pearl studs often preferred.
Can you make a set for an overseas event? Yes, and we advise on timing, bearing in mind import duty and tax apply in your country.