The short answer: a sapphire or emerald signet gives the classic shape a colourful face, and sapphire is the more durable choice for daily wear while emerald suits careful wear with a protective setting. Both are striking and personal.
A gemstone signet combines the heritage of a signet with the beauty of a coloured stone. These two stones are popular.
Sapphire signets
Sapphire is very hard and tough, so it suits everyday use. Blue is the classic colour, and other shades are possible. The face can be cut flat, cabochon or faceted.
Emerald signets
Emerald offers a rich green and a classic look. It needs more care, because it often has inclusions and may be treated with oil. A protective setting and gentle handling help. Our guide to emerald oil, jardin and clarity explains what to expect.
| Sapphire | Emerald | |
|---|---|---|
| Durability | Very high | Needs care |
| Colour | Blue and others | Green |
| Maintenance | Low | Higher |
Natural or lab grown
Both stones are available as natural or lab grown. Lab grown stones are often cleaner and more consistent. We label each clearly.
Cut for a signet
Flat or table cuts show colour and suit a signet's broad face. Rectangular and oval shapes are popular.
How the stone is set
On a signet, the stone usually sits in a rubover or bezel setting, a rim of metal that wraps the edge and holds the stone flush with the face. That protects the edges, which is especially helpful for emerald, and keeps the surface smooth so it does not catch. A raised setting shows more of the stone but is more exposed. We show both options in a render.
Colour and tone
The best sapphire and emerald faces have a colour that looks rich in daylight and under indoor light. Very dark stones can look almost black on a ring, and very pale ones can look washed out. We show you stones on video in different lighting so you can choose the tone you like.
Adding personal detail
Because the stone takes the face of the ring, personal detail usually moves elsewhere. Initials or a small crest can be engraved on the shoulders, a date or a short message can go inside the band, and a little hand finished pattern can frame the stone. These touches keep the ring clearly yours while the colour does the talking.
Other stones to consider
If neither sapphire nor emerald feels right, onyx gives a deep black face, bloodstone a dark green flecked with red, and lapis a strong blue. Each has a long history in signets. Our guide to gemstone signet rings covers them.
Metals
Yellow gold flatters both stones. White gold and platinum offer a cooler look. We talk through the options when we plan the design.
Wearing a gemstone signet
A flat stone face sits close to the hand, so it is less likely to catch than a raised setting. Even so, a coloured stone can chip if knocked hard, so take the ring off for heavy work, and have the setting checked from time to time.
How to choose
- Pick the colour.
- Decide on daily or occasional wear.
- Choose the face shape and engraving.
Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
See signet rings, engraving a signet ring and the pinky ring.
Frequently asked questions
Can a gemstone be engraved? Stones are usually not engraved, but the band can be.
Which is better for daily wear? Sapphire.
Are they expensive? It depends on the stone, and we talk through options to suit your budget.
How is the stone held? Usually in a rubover setting that holds it flush with the face.
Can I order from overseas? Yes, by video consultation, with insured, tracked FedEx delivery.