The short answer: a ruby ring looks best in a setting that supports the stone's deep red colour and protects it, such as a classic claw solitaire, a halo, a three stone ring or a bezel. Ruby is very hard and durable, so it suits everyday wear, and a good setting makes its colour glow.
Ruby is red corundum, the same mineral family as sapphire, and it ranks 9 on the Mohs scale. Its colour ranges from pinkish red to deep red. It has a long association with love and passion, and it makes a bold, distinctive engagement ring. Fine ruby is rare in larger sizes, so the stone you choose matters as much as the setting. See ruby rings: a complete buying guide.
Choosing the colour
Look for a red you love rather than a particular label. Some rubies lean pink, and others lean towards a darker, slightly purple red. Colour looks different in daylight and indoor light, so we can show you the stone on video in more than one light. See pigeon blood and glass filled rubies.
The best settings for a ruby
| Setting | Look | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Claw solitaire | Classic and rich | Lets the red stand alone |
| Halo | Glamorous | White diamonds make the red look more vivid |
| Three stone | Meaningful | Diamond side stones balance the colour |
| Bezel | Modern and secure | Protects the edges and gives the stone weight |
| Vintage style | Antique | Yellow gold and milgrain suit a ruby well |
Open or closed back
Light coming in from below can brighten a ruby, so an open gallery often makes the colour glow. A darker stone can sometimes benefit from more light, while a lighter stone may look richer with a slightly closed setting. We look at the stone with you and suggest the setting that shows its colour best.
Metals
Yellow gold is a favourite for ruby, since it deepens the red and gives a rich, classic look. Rose gold feels softer and more romantic. White gold and platinum make the red look crisper, and they pair well with diamond accents.
Shapes
Ovals and cushions are very popular, since they keep weight and show colour well. Rounds add sparkle, and emerald cuts give a calm, glassy look. Hearts and pears are also used for romantic designs.
Natural or lab grown
Both are real rubies, with the same chemistry and hardness. Natural stones form in the earth, and lab grown stones are made in a laboratory. We label every stone clearly. See lab grown sapphire, ruby and emerald vs natural, and browse diamonds for accent stones.
Treatments
Many natural rubies are heated to improve colour and clarity, which is common and stable. Some lower priced stones are glass filled, which needs much more careful handling. A report should state any treatment, and we always tell you what we know about a stone before you choose it.
Daily wear
Ruby is durable, but no stone is indestructible. Take the ring off for heavy work, clean it with warm soapy water, and have the claws checked regularly. Our guide to cleavage and chips explains what to watch for.
Ruby or garnet or spinel?
Other red stones can look similar to ruby, but they are different minerals with different hardness. If you are comparing stones, we can explain the differences and show you each one. See spinel vs sapphire vs ruby.
How to choose
- Choose a red you love on video.
- Pick the shape and setting.
- Choose the metal.
- Approve the design in writing before anything is made.
Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. See our guide to setting types. Pieces start from £600.
Frequently asked questions
Is ruby good for an engagement ring? Yes, it is very hard and suits daily wear.
Are lab grown rubies real? Yes, they have the same chemistry as natural rubies.
Which metal is best? Yellow gold is popular, and other metals work well too.
Is my ruby treated? Many are heated, and we tell you what the report says.
Can I add diamonds? Yes, a halo or side stones is a classic choice.