A collar is a band of metal that surrounds or supports a centre stone. The word is closely linked to collet and bezel settings, but it is a description of a component rather than one fixed setting style. Depending on the design, a collar may hold the stone itself or simply support it while claws do the holding.
The term is used in slightly different ways across the trade, which can make it confusing. The exact meaning can vary between workshops, so this guide explains the related terms rather than treating them as identical.
Collar, collet and bezel
- Bezel. A band of metal surrounding the stone. In a rub over setting, a metal collar is formed to the stone's dimensions and its top edge is worked over the stone to hold it.
- Collet. A traditional term for a metal mount or cup that holds or carries a stone, closely related to the bezel.
- Collar. A general word for the metal ring around or beneath the stone. It may form part of a bezel or collet, add support underneath, or link the stone holding part to the shoulders or gallery.
A supporting collar is not necessarily what secures the stone. In a claw setting, for example, a collet may sit beneath the diamond while the claws provide the main hold.
What does a collar look like?
Picture a slim band of metal circling the stone just below its widest point. On some rings the collar is the main thing holding the diamond, with the metal shaped closely to the stone. On others, a collar sits beneath the stone and claws rise from it to grip the edge. From the side, the collar gives the setting a tidy, finished outline.
Collar vs bezel
A bezel setting wraps metal fully around the edge of the stone, covering its girdle all the way round. A collar can be lighter and more open, and on some designs it sits lower so more of the diamond's side is visible. If you like the clean look of a bezel but want more light reaching the stone, a collar can be a good middle ground. Our guide to bezel settings covers the full rub over style.
Collar vs claws
Claws hold the stone at a few points, which lets in the most light but leaves the edge more exposed. A full bezel or rub over generally protects more of the stone's edge than exposed claws. A decorative or supporting collar beneath the diamond does not necessarily give the same protection. Many designs combine the two, with a collar under the stone and claws on top. If you are weighing up claw options, see our guide to claw settings.
Who suits a collar setting?
- People with active hands who want more metal around the stone than claws offer.
- Anyone who likes a crisp, architectural outline from the side.
- Most diamond shapes. Where the collar forms part of a bezel or collet, round, oval, emerald, cushion, radiant and Asscher cuts are generally well suited. Pear, marquise, princess and heart shapes can also work, with careful metalwork to protect points and corners. This is a general guide to what is feasible rather than a promise that every collar design suits every shape.
- Vintage inspired designs, where a collar can be finished with milgrain or engraving.
Things to consider
A collar adds a little metal, so the stone can look slightly smaller from the side than in an open claw setting. It can also take a little more care to clean, as dust can collect where the collar meets the stone. A quick soak and a soft brush usually deals with this.
Designing a collar setting
A collar is easy to adjust at the CAD stage: its height, thickness and whether it pairs with claws can all be changed. You can have as many CAD revisions as you need, within reason, before you approve the design and pay a 70% deposit. Every ring is crafted by specialist goldsmiths and UK hallmarked, and bespoke rings start from £600.
Start with a stone from our lab grown diamonds, or design your bespoke engagement ring with us.
Frequently asked questions
What is a collar setting on a ring?
A collar is a band of metal that surrounds or supports the centre stone. It may form part of a bezel or collet, or sit beneath claws that do the holding. The exact meaning varies between workshops.
Is a collar setting the same as a bezel?
Not always. A bezel surrounds the stone and holds it, while a collar is a broader term that can also describe a supporting ring beneath a claw set stone.
Does a collar setting make a diamond look smaller?
It can a little from the side, because it adds metal around the stone. From above, the difference is usually small.
Can a collar setting be combined with claws?
Yes. Many designs use a collar under the stone with claws rising from it to hold the edge.
What is a collet setting?
A traditional term for a metal mount that holds or carries a stone, closely related to a bezel.
Which diamond shapes suit a collar or collet?
Round, oval, emerald, cushion, radiant and Asscher cuts are generally well suited. Pear, marquise, princess and heart shapes can work with careful protection of points and corners.