In short: A claw setting (called a prong setting in the US) holds the diamond with small metal arms that grip its edge. Four claws show more of the stone and look clean and square; six claws look rounder and spread the grip over more points. The tip shape, from round to pointed, changes the look as much as the number does. Whichever you choose, claws are worth checking once a year.
What a claw setting actually does
Each claw is a thin post of metal that rises from the base of the setting, called the basket or gallery, and bends over the edge of the diamond to hold it in place. Because the claws touch only a small part of the stone, more light reaches the diamond than in a setting that wraps around it, like a bezel. That is why claw settings are such a popular choice for solitaires.
If you want a fuller explanation of the parts of a ring, from the head to the gallery to the shank, our anatomy guide in the bespoke journey blog covers each one. Here we focus on the claws.
4 claws vs 6 claws
This is the decision most people start with.
- Four claws leave more of the diamond on show and give a round stone a slightly square outline from above. They suit people who want a clean, modern look and as much sparkle as possible.
- Six claws make a round stone look rounder and spread the grip over more points, so if one claw is ever damaged the stone still has five others around it. The extra metal is a little more visible, which some people love because it frames the stone.
- Shaped stones often have their own logic. Pears and hearts use a V shaped claw at the point to protect the tip, and emerald or princess cuts often use claws at each corner.
Neither option is better in every case. It depends on the stone, the size and how you live. A goldsmith will help you weigh up the look against your day to day life.
Claw tip shapes
The tip of the claw, the bit you see on top of the stone, comes in several shapes:
- Round or button tips. Soft, smooth and less likely to catch on jumpers. We compare these in more detail in our button vs claw prongs post.
- Pointed or claw tips. Taper to a fine point, which looks delicate and lets the stone appear a touch larger.
- Flat or tab tips. Broad and flat, often used on step cuts for a crisp, architectural look.
- Double claws. Two thin claws side by side at each position, giving eight in total. A pretty detail that adds a little extra grip.
- Compass claws. Claws placed at north, south, east and west, which turns a square or round stone on point for a different look.
Claw height and how the ring sits
Claws can hold the stone high above the finger, which shows off the diamond and leaves room for a straight wedding band underneath, or lower, which catches less on clothes and gloves. A low setting can suit people who work with their hands. If a low profile is a priority, it is worth also looking at a bezel setting, where a rim of metal goes all the way round the stone.
Looking after claws
Claws are small, and over years of wear the metal can thin or bend slightly. Simple habits help:
- Take the ring off for the gym, gardening and heavy cleaning.
- Every so often, hold the ring near your ear and tap it gently. A stone that rattles or moves needs checking.
- Run a fine cloth or a pair of tights over the claws. If it snags, a claw may have lifted.
- Have the claws inspected by a jeweller once a year. Worn claws can be re tipped, which means adding new metal to the tip.
Every À Vie stone is GIA or IGI certified and comes with a 6 month stone warranty.
Choosing claws for a bespoke ring
When you commission a ring with us, the claws are shown clearly in the CAD design, so you can see the number, the tip shape and the height before anything is made. Nothing goes to the bench until you approve it in writing. Bespoke engagement rings start from £600, and you can see how pricing is put together in our engagement ring pricing guide.
A quick way to decide
If you want the most diamond on show, start with four claws. If you want a rounder outline and a little more metal around the stone, start with six. If you knock your hands a lot, lean towards rounded, lower claws, and if you love a delicate look, try finer pointed tips. Then ask to see both options in the CAD before you choose.
Frequently asked questions
Is a 4 claw or 6 claw setting better?
Neither is better in every case. Four claws show more of the diamond and look cleaner; six claws make a round stone look rounder and spread the grip over more points.
What is the difference between a claw and a prong?
Nothing. Claw is the usual UK term and prong is the usual US term for the same thing.
How often should engagement ring claws be checked?
Once a year is a sensible habit, and sooner if the stone moves, the ring catches on clothes, or you have knocked it hard.
Can worn claws be repaired?
Usually, yes. A jeweller can re tip a worn claw by adding new metal, or rebuild a claw that has broken.
Do claws catch on clothing?
Pointed and high claws can catch more than round, low ones. Rounded tips and a lower setting help if this is a concern.