The short answer: an oval diamond suits solitaires, hidden halos and east west settings, and it tends to look longer and more flattering on the finger than a round stone of the same weight. The setting you choose changes how elongated, modern or vintage the ring feels.
Oval diamonds are a brilliant style cut with an elongated outline. That length can make fingers look slimmer, and the shape has a softer feel than a round brilliant. Here are the settings we make most often for ovals and what each one does.
Solitaire
A solitaire keeps the focus on the outline of the stone. Four claws give a modern look, and six claws wrap the stone more securely. Many people place claws at the two ends of the oval, which are the most exposed points, and a V shaped claw there protects the tips.
Protecting the tips
The pointed ends of an oval are the part most likely to catch on knitwear or knock against surfaces. A well designed setting covers them with claws or a metal wrap. If you are active, ask us about this when we plan the ring.
Hidden halo
A hidden halo adds sparkle beneath the stone and a clean look from above. It is a good option if you want a minimal front view with a little extra drama from the side.
Halo
A halo of small diamonds follows the outline of the oval and makes the centre look larger. It suits a vintage or glamorous look, and the oval shape lets the halo flow in an elegant line.
East west settings
Turning the oval sideways, so it lies across the finger, gives a contemporary and unexpected look. It suits people who like a ring that feels more like jewellery than a traditional engagement ring. It also affects how the diamond sits next to a wedding band, so we plan the two together.
Bezel
A bezel hugs the outline of the oval and gives it a smooth, sleek look. It protects the edges, including the tips, which makes it a sensible choice for everyday wear.
Three stone
An oval centre with tapered baguettes or small round stones on either side makes the ring look wider and more structured. It suits people who want something with presence.
The bow tie effect
Many ovals show a darker shadow across the middle of the stone, often called a bow tie. It varies from stone to stone, and some are barely visible. When we help you choose a diamond we look at this on video, so you can see how it appears in real light.
Choosing the metal
Yellow gold gives a warm, classic look, and white gold or platinum keeps the stone looking cool and clean. Rose gold is popular with ovals for a soft, romantic feel.
How to choose
- Decide whether you prefer the stone north south or east west.
- Think about how much protection the tips need.
- Choose between a plain or a decorated setting.
- Check the ring with your wedding band plan.
You can see stones in our diamonds and lab grown colourless diamonds collections. If you are also considering a round stone, our guide to settings for a round brilliant may help. For every shape in one place, see our diamond shapes guide. Nothing is made until you approve the design in writing, and our standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, which can vary with your location and how busy we are. Pieces start from £600.
Frequently asked questions
Does an oval look bigger than a round? An oval often has a larger surface area for its weight, so it tends to look a little larger, though it depends on the proportions of the individual stone.
Do oval diamonds chip easily at the tips? The tips are the most exposed part, so protecting them with claws or a bezel is sensible.
Can I have the oval set east west? Yes, and we can show you how it looks in a render before anything is made.