Princess Cut Engagement Rings: A Complete Guide
The princess cut is a square brilliant cut with sharp, uncut corners at each point. It was developed in the 1960s and became one of the most widely purchased engagement ring shapes globally through the 1990s and 2000s, second only to the round brilliant in total volume. Its combination of geometric precision, strong sparkle, and square outline appeals to buyers who want a contemporary, structured look that reads as decisively different from the round brilliant without departing into the territory of more unusual fancy shapes.
TL;DR: Princess cut diamonds produce sharp, brilliant sparkle in a square format. The pointed corners are the most vulnerable part of the stone and must be protected in the setting with corner prongs or a bezel. No standardised cut grade is available from GIA or IGI for princess cuts, so quality must be assessed visually. Princess cuts are typically 10 to 15 per cent less expensive per carat than equivalent round brilliants. Bespoke princess cut engagement rings are available at À Vie Diamonds from £2,000.
What Makes the Princess Cut Distinctive
The princess cut has a fully square outline with four pointed corners and a brilliant faceting structure beneath. The facets radiate from the centre in a chevron pattern that produces a sharper, more geometric sparkle than a round brilliant, with distinctive X-shaped reflections visible from above in well-cut stones. The combination of a square footprint and brilliant-level light return is what distinguishes the princess from both the cushion cut (which has rounded corners and a softer light character) and the Asscher cut (which is a step cut with a fundamentally different optical quality).
The shape suits wearers who are drawn to clean lines and geometric precision. It is a confident, structured choice that sits between the universality of a round brilliant and the deliberateness of a more unusual shape.
Princess Cut Pros
Strong brilliance in a square format. The brilliant faceting produces active, sparkling light return. A well-cut princess diamond looks lively and bright rather than quiet, which differentiates it clearly from step cuts like the Asscher or emerald cut.
Efficient use of the rough diamond. Princess cuts retain more of the original rough diamond during cutting than round brilliants, which historically made them slightly more cost-efficient to produce. This contributes to the modest price-per-carat advantage over round brilliants.
Clean, contemporary aesthetic. The square outline with sharp edges reads as modern and deliberate. It suits buyers drawn to architectural or geometric design sensibilities.
Good face-up size per carat. A square princess diamond presents well relative to its carat weight, appearing larger than a round brilliant of equivalent weight due to its different proportions.
Princess Cut Cons
Vulnerable corners. The four pointed corners are the most structurally fragile points of the stone. Chips at the corners are the most common damage issue with princess cut diamonds. Every corner must be protected by a claw prong or bezel in the setting, and those prongs need periodic checking to ensure they have not shifted.
No standardised cut grade. GIA and IGI do not issue a cut grade for princess cuts the way they do for round brilliants. Quality must be assessed by looking at the specific stone: even light distribution, no dark zones, strong symmetry, and a well-proportioned outline. Video of the stone in normal lighting is essential before purchasing.
Colour pools at corners. Like cushion cuts, princess cuts can show colour more readily at the corners than in the centre. G colour or above in white gold or platinum is the sensible minimum. H can work in yellow gold where the metal's warmth softens the stone's tone.
Less distinctive than it once was. The princess cut's peak popularity in the 2000s means it is strongly associated with a specific era of engagement ring design. Some buyers find this a disadvantage; others find the familiarity reassuring.
Setting the Corners: The Critical Decision
Every corner of a princess diamond needs protection. The standard approach uses four corner prongs, each covering one point. These prongs must sit securely over the corner and be checked periodically to ensure they have not lifted or shifted. A prong that has moved away from the corner leaves the stone's most vulnerable point exposed.
A full bezel setting provides maximum protection by enclosing the entire outline of the stone in a continuous metal rim. This eliminates the corner vulnerability entirely. The trade-off is reduced light entry at the sides. A partial bezel covering the four corners while leaving the sides open is a compromise that protects the vulnerable areas while preserving more light return. See our bezel settings guide for more.
Princess Cut vs Cushion Cut: The Square Diamond Comparison
| Factor | Princess cut | Cushion cut |
|---|---|---|
| Corner type | Sharp, pointed | Rounded |
| Light character | Sharp, geometric sparkle | Warm, chunky or crushed ice |
| Chip risk | Medium (pointed corners) | Low (rounded corners) |
| Aesthetic | Contemporary, geometric | Romantic, vintage-influenced |
| Cut grade available | No | No |
| Price per carat | 10 to 15% below round | 15 to 25% below round |
For the full head-to-head on this decision, including which suits which hand and setting style, see our dedicated princess vs cushion comparison guide.
Princess Cut Rings at À Vie Diamonds
We source IGI and GIA certified princess cut diamonds and provide video of each stone before selection. Every princess commission includes a discussion of corner protection at the CAD stage. See our diamond shapes guide, our bespoke journey page, and our pricing guide for more detail. Get in touch to discuss a commission.
Related Reading
- Princess vs Cushion Cut: Which Diamond Shape Should You Choose?
- Bezel, Cathedral, and Tulip Settings Explained
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a princess cut the same as a square diamond? Not exactly. Princess cut is the specific name for a square brilliant cut with sharp, uncut corners. Other square shapes include the Asscher cut (cropped corners, step-cut faceting) and the cushion cut (rounded corners, brilliant or modified brilliant faceting). All are square, but each looks and behaves differently.
Why do princess cut diamonds need corner prongs? The four pointed corners are the most structurally vulnerable points of the stone. Chips at the corners are the most common damage issue for this shape, and prong protection is essential. Prongs should be checked periodically to ensure they remain secure over the corners.
What colour grade should I choose for a princess cut diamond? G or above in white gold or platinum. H is workable in yellow gold. Princess cuts can show colour at the corners more readily than round brilliants.
Is a princess cut cheaper than a round brilliant? Yes, typically 10 to 15 per cent less per carat for equivalent colour and clarity grades, though the gap is smaller than for some other fancy shapes such as cushion or marquise.
How much does a princess cut engagement ring cost? Bespoke princess cut commissions at À Vie Diamonds start from £2,000. Most fall between £2,500 and £5,000 depending on the stone specification, metal, and setting. Contact us for a personalised estimate.
Last reviewed: July 2026 · À Vie Diamonds