For a ring worn every day, 18ct gold and platinum are the usual choices for engagement rings, while 9ct gold is a lighter, harder wearing option that suits plain bands and tighter budgets. The right metal depends on the colour you want, how much upkeep you are happy with and how the ring will be worn.
Here is how the three compare in practice.
What the numbers mean
The carat number for gold tells you how much pure gold the alloy contains. In the UK, the hallmark shows this as a number in parts per thousand.
- 9ct gold is 37.5% pure gold, hallmarked 375.
- 18ct gold is 75% pure gold, hallmarked 750.
- Platinum used in jewellery is commonly 95% pure, hallmarked 950.
The rest of each alloy is made up of other metals, which set its colour and hardness. Our guide to UK hallmarking explains the marks in more detail.
Illustration of a white metal band beside a yellow gold band, not a finished À Vie piece.
Colour
18ct yellow gold has a rich, warm colour, because there is more gold in it. 9ct yellow gold is paler and slightly more muted. Rose gold follows the same pattern. White gold in either carat is usually rhodium plated to look bright white, while platinum is naturally white and stays that way.
How each metal wears
All three are suitable for daily wear, but they age differently.
- 9ct gold is often harder than 18ct, depending on the alloy, so it can resist scratches well. It is less dense, which makes rings feel lighter.
- 18ct gold is softer than 9ct and will show fine scratches over time, which can be polished out. It is the traditional choice for engagement rings in the UK.
- Platinum is dense and heavy. When it is scratched, the metal tends to move rather than wear away, and it develops a soft satin patina. Many people like that look, and it can be polished back to a shine.
For a deeper look at strength, see our article on platinum vs 18ct gold durability.
Holding diamonds securely
For claws holding a centre stone, platinum and 18ct gold are both widely used. Platinum claws are often chosen for their density and how they wear. 9ct gold can be used for set rings, though many people prefer 18ct or platinum for a main engagement ring stone.
Skin sensitivity
Lower carat gold contains more of the other metals, so people with sensitive skin sometimes react to 9ct. Platinum and 18ct gold are less likely to cause irritation. If you have a known metal allergy, tell us early. Platinum or palladium white gold are common choices for sensitive skin.
Upkeep
| 9ct gold | 18ct gold | Platinum | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Feel on the hand | Lightest | Medium | Heaviest |
| Colour (yellow) | Paler | Rich and warm | Naturally white |
| Scratches | Resists well | Shows fine marks | Develops a patina |
| White version plated? | Usually | Usually | No |
If you choose white gold, plan for occasional replating. Our guide to rhodium plating explains why.
Matching your rings
If you will wear an engagement ring and a wedding band together, it usually makes sense to choose the same metal for both, so they wear at a similar rate and stay the same colour.
Cost
Metal choice does affect the cost of a ring. 9ct gold is usually the most affordable. Between 18ct gold and platinum, the cost depends on current metal prices and how much metal the design needs, so the simplest way to compare is to ask for a quote in each.
Comparing metals with us
We can render the same design in 9ct, 18ct and platinum and quote each, so you can weigh colour, weight and cost side by side. A 70% deposit starts the making once you approve the CAD design. Your ring is crafted by specialist goldsmiths, UK hallmarked and sent by insured tracked courier. Bespoke rings start from £600.
Read about the bespoke journey to see how a commission works from first conversation to delivery.
Frequently asked questions
Is 9ct gold good for an engagement ring?
It can be. 9ct is hard wearing and light, though many people prefer 18ct or platinum for the richer colour and for holding a centre stone.
Is 18ct gold or platinum better for everyday wear?
Both suit daily wear. 18ct shows fine scratches that polish out, while platinum develops a soft patina and does not need plating.
What do 375, 750 and 950 mean on a ring?
They are UK fineness marks: 375 is 9ct gold, 750 is 18ct gold and 950 is platinum.
Can 9ct gold irritate skin?
It can for some people, because it contains more of the other metals. If you have a known metal allergy, tell us early. Platinum or palladium white gold are common choices.