TL;DR: an oval is a brilliant cut, with an elongated outline and lively sparkle, while an emerald cut is a step cut, with long rectangular facets and a calm, mirror like flash. Oval suits people who want sparkle and a flattering shape. Emerald suits those who like understated elegance and are happy to choose a high clarity stone. Pieces start from £600.
The look
An oval scatters light in all directions, like a round diamond stretched out. An emerald cut shows broad flashes across clean planes, like a staircase of light.
Clarity and colour
An emerald cut's open facets show inclusions and colour more readily, so a higher grade is often chosen. An oval hides small inclusions better. Our clarity scale guide explains the grades.
The hand
Both are elongated and can flatter the hand. An oval has softer lines. An emerald cut has a more architectural outline.
Durability
An oval has no corners, but the tips are exposed. An emerald cut has cut corners, which need protecting. See our guide to cleavage and chips.
The bow tie and the hall of mirrors
Some ovals show a darker band across the middle, called a bow tie. Emerald cuts have a hall of mirrors effect from their parallel facets. Look at video of the specific stone, and ask us to point out what you are seeing. Our guide to the bow tie effect shows how much it can vary from stone to stone.
Length to width ratio
Both shapes come in different proportions, from stout to very slender. A slimmer stone looks longer and can make a finger look elegant, while a rounder oval or a squarer emerald cut feels more classic. The ratio is simply the length divided by the width, and a personal preference matters more than any rule. Ask us for the measurements of stones you like, and we can show you how each would look on a hand in a CAD render.
Which suits which style
If your partner loves sparkle and a feminine, soft look, an oval is a natural fit. If they prefer clean, art deco inspired lines and a quieter kind of luxury, an emerald cut may be closer. Many people also like to pair an emerald cut with tapered baguettes, which echo the step facets, and an oval with a hidden halo that adds light beneath the stone.
Settings
Both suit solitaires, three stone rings and hidden halos. A bezel suits either. Our guide to round versus cushion compares two other shapes, and our guide to pear versus marquise compares two more.
Living with each shape
An oval tends to look bright even when it is a little dusty, because its many small facets keep scattering light. An emerald cut shows smudges and hand cream more readily across its broad table, so it rewards a quick clean every week or so. Neither is fussy, but it helps to know what to expect before you choose.
Natural or lab grown
Both are available as natural and lab grown, and we describe each plainly.
How to decide
- Look at each shape in photographs and video, in daylight if you can.
- Decide whether you want sparkle or a calm, glassy flash.
- Think about everyday wear and how you would protect the tips or corners.
- Compare measurements, not just weights.
- Ask us to preview your favourite in a CAD render.
Working with us
We work by video consultation and message, send sketches and CAD renders, and make nothing until you approve the design in writing. Standard making time is 5 to 6 weeks, varying with your location and how busy we are. Overseas, the customer pays import duty and tax, and delivery is insured and tracked with FedEx.
Frequently asked questions
Which is more sparkly?
An oval, usually.
Which shows flaws more?
An emerald cut.
Which looks larger?
Depends on proportions. Compare dimensions.
Which is more practical?
Both, with protected tips or corners.
Which needs cleaning more often?
An emerald cut shows smudges sooner, so a weekly clean keeps it at its best.