A setting protects a princess cut best when metal covers or guards each of its four pointed corners, for example with V-shaped claws, split claws at each corner or a bezel that surrounds the edge. No setting can guarantee a diamond will never chip, so the right choice is one made for your stone’s actual outline and dimensions, followed by regular checks once you are wearing it.
Why the Corners Need Protecting
The princess cut is a square or rectangular diamond with a modified brilliant facet arrangement and sharp, pointed corners. GIA explains that diamond is extremely hard but “only somewhat tough”, and that the corners of a princess cut “are very vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to the cleavage plane”.
Chips usually happen when an edge or point strikes something hard. A setting cannot change the stone’s structure, but it can reduce how exposed the corners are.
Setting Options That Guard the Corners
V-shaped claws
A V-shaped claw (often called a V prong) wraps around a corner rather than gripping it at a single point. GIA suggests a setting with four V-shaped prongs for a princess cut, one at each corner, to help protect it.
Split claws at each corner
GIA also describes eight prongs, with two at each corner, as an option. Whether this suits a particular stone depends on its size and proportions, which is a decision for the design stage.
Full and partial bezels
A bezel is a thin strip of metal that surrounds the stone. GIA notes that a bezel protects the girdle against bumps and knocks, and that partial bezels and V-shaped prongs also protect vulnerable points and corners. If you prefer a partial bezel, check that the corners themselves are covered.
What a Hidden Halo Does and Does Not Do
A hidden halo is a row of small diamonds set beneath the centre stone, visible mainly from the side. It sits below the stone rather than around its corners, so it is not a substitute for corner claws or a bezel. The centre stone’s corners still need their own protection.
Fit Matters More Than the Name of the Setting
Two settings with the same name can protect a stone very differently. A princess cut can be square or rectangular, and GIA notes that a square princess has a length-to-width ratio of no more than 1.05:1, while rectangular stones vary. The claws or bezel need to be made for your stone’s actual measurements rather than a generic outline.
The stone itself also plays a part. GIA advises avoiding girdles with very thin sections, especially at corners and points, and taking care with inclusions near the girdle or a point. Your grading report records girdle thickness and clarity characteristics. For a bespoke ring, the design is shown to you in CAD for approval before anything is made, so you can check every corner is covered.
Looking After a Princess Cut Once You Wear It
Protection only works while the metal is intact. GIA describes bent or broken prongs as a very common cause of chipping, and a loose diamond is at higher risk. Its advice includes:
- Gently push the stone. If it moves, it is loose.
- Look for gaps between the diamond and the setting, ideally with a 10x loupe.
- Look for claws that are bent, worn or catching on clothing.
- Take the ring off for gardening, exercise and similar activities.
If you notice movement, a damaged claw or a chip, stop wearing the ring and have it checked by a jeweller. GIA advises not wearing a chipped diamond until it has been repaired.
Designing a Princess Cut Ring With Us
We are a bespoke studio in Manchester, working without a showroom. We source natural and lab-grown diamonds with GIA or IGI reports, design your ring in CAD for your approval before it is made, and refine the design with you within reason. A 70% deposit starts the making. Bespoke rings start from £600.
Start with our bespoke engagement ring design page, read our guide to bezel settings, or email us at enquiries@aviediamonds.com. You can also get in touch here.
Frequently Asked Questions
How should a setting protect a princess cut’s corners? By covering or guarding each pointed corner, for example with V-shaped claws, split claws at each corner or a bezel. The setting should be made for your stone’s actual dimensions.
Can a setting stop a princess cut from chipping? No setting can guarantee that. GIA notes that a hard blow to a corner prong can still cause a chip, so protective settings reduce exposure rather than remove the risk.
Does a hidden halo protect the corners? No. A hidden halo sits beneath the centre stone and adds detail to the side view. The corners still need their own claws or a bezel.
How do I know if my princess cut is loose? Gently push the stone. If it moves, or you can see gaps or a bent claw, have it checked by a jeweller before you keep wearing it.